Quick answer: The difference is how the shoe closes. An oxford has closed lacing: the leather panels that hold the eyelets are stitched beneath the vamp, the front section of the upper. On a derby, those panels are stitched on top and can open farther apart. A monk strap has no laces; one or two buckled straps hold it on. For otherwise similar shoes, an oxford is generally the dressiest of the three and a derby the most relaxed in appearance. A plain monk strap often sits between them. Colour, material and detailing can change that order.
How do you tell an oxford, a derby and a monk strap apart?
On an oxford, the eyelet panels sit underneath the vamp, so the lacing looks closed. On a derby, the same panels sit on top of the vamp and look like two small wings. A monk strap has no laces at all. One strap with a buckle is a single monk, and two straps with two buckles are a double monk.
Oxford: closed lacing, the classic dressy shoe
The oxford is the traditional choice for a suit and for formal occasions. The plainer the toe and the darker the leather, the more formal an oxford generally looks.
Victoria is our black patent cap-toe oxford. A cap toe is a separate piece of leather across the toe. Hanang is a wholecut oxford in black calf leather, cut from a single piece of leather.
Derby: open lacing, a more relaxed look
Because the eyelet panels sit on top, a derby opens wider and gives you more room to adjust the lacing across the top of the foot. How a shoe fits still depends on its last and width, so read the fit note on the product page. A derby generally looks a little less formal than an oxford. It works with a suit in a relaxed office, with chinos and with jeans.
Jaya is a lace-up derby in black calf leather. Vinson is a plain-toe derby in black patent leather, a dressier derby for the evening.
Monk strap: a buckle instead of laces
A monk strap closes with a buckle across the top of the foot. It can be worn with a suit and just as easily with a jacket and trousers. A plain single monk looks dressier. A second buckle, a wingtip pattern or a kiltie (the fringed flap over the front) makes the shoe look more casual.
Nevado is a single monk strap with a kiltie, in calf leather, in seven colours. Massif is a single monk strap in black or brown calf leather. Lhotse is a double monk strap, in black, brown, navy and tan.
Which one is the most formal?
For otherwise similar shoes, the usual order from most to least formal is an oxford, then a plain single monk strap, then a derby. A black patent derby can be dressier than a brown suede oxford, so look at the colour, the material and the detailing as well. Decorative perforations and wingtip patterns make any of the three look less formal.
For wedding and black-tie choices, see our guide What Shoes to Wear With a Tuxedo or to a Wedding.
Which shoe should you wear when?
- Formal daytime event, a daytime wedding or a dark business suit: a black calf oxford.
- Evening or black tie: a black patent oxford.
- A suit in a relaxed office, or chinos: a derby or a monk strap.
- Weekends and jeans: a brown derby or a monk strap.
- A jacket with trousers, or a business suit: a plain black or dark brown monk strap is a versatile option.
How are these shoes made?
Every model in this guide is made in our own atelier in Istanbul, with Blake-stitched construction and leather soles, and is fully leather-lined. Most of our Blake-stitched styles can be resoled. Each product page lists the leather, the last, the width and the construction.
If you are unsure about size, check the size guide and the fit note on the product page. In-stock pairs are usually delivered in 2–4 business days. You can return or exchange unworn pairs in their original packaging within 30 days of delivery. Return shipping is paid by the customer; see Shipping & Returns for the conditions.
Browse the styles: Oxfords, Derbys and Monks.
Frequently asked questions
Is a derby less formal than an oxford?
Generally, yes. The open lacing gives the derby a more relaxed look. A black patent or black calf derby still works with a suit, but for a formal daytime event or black tie an oxford is the safer choice.
Can you wear a monk strap with a suit?
Yes. A plain single monk strap in black or dark brown goes well with a business suit. Styles with two buckles or a wingtip suit more casual outfits.
What is the difference between a single and a double monk strap?
A single monk strap has one strap and one buckle. A double monk strap has two straps and two buckles. Both close without laces.
Which of the three should be my first pair?
If you mostly dress up, start with a black calf oxford. If you want one pair for both a suit and a jacket with trousers, a plain monk strap in black or dark brown is a versatile choice. If you wear chinos or jeans more often, start with a derby.
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